In 2003 dozens of US and international publications picked up a Seattle controversy over naked sushi. The Seattle Times reported that a Japanese fad of serving sushi on naked women has reached America's shores.

Chopsticks at the ready, patrons line up. Hours earlier, across town on the campus of the University of Washington, eight activists, mostly Asian-American women, express outrage at what they call the prostitution of sushi and the exploitation of women.

The fact is, naked sushi was already being served in Seattle for a while. And with fond memories of naked sushi at Burning Man, it was time I talked to the very first Seattle naked sushi chef, Jeff Snodgrass.

DB: Sushi is inherently Japanese. How did you get involved with raw fish?

Hola, dB., long time! Thanks for the opportunity to gloat and share my passion for all things edible. Now, to get to your question, I think you will find the wild path that has been my journey explained, to be a funny and unique story. Sushi is indeed a primarily Japanese tradition utilizing foods and techniques as beautiful and complicated as the culture that created it. But, my friend, anything that is as great as sushi will be found by others and craved by all eventually. I personally got involved with raw fish when in my many travels was living and working in Ha Kuaui, HA. I had worked my way up to a position as sous-chef at a very popular Italian fine dining establishment on the north shore. My boss was this wonderful man from the Lake Como area and was a master at antipasti. He would make bruschetta your mouth would water for. One of the special dishes he would concoct was a version of ceviche which of course uses raw fish or sea creatures and a blend of particular vegetables "cooked" without heat, using lemon juice and served cold. This was actually the first time I ever ate raw meat, other than beef. Then, one of our local fisherman brought in a freshly caught 150 pound Ahi tuna and urged me to cut off a portion of it to eat on the spot. He assured me of the absolute freshness of the fish. There is nothing like this sensation in the world. It was breathtaking and exquisite. From that day on I have never eaten cooked tuna again.

DB: Discovering raw fish in an Italian restaurant! Who would have thought?! Then, you moved to the Northwest ...

I ended up leaving the Emerald Isle by sailing vessel back to my home the Great Northwest, where I easily obtained a job at a wonderful Pan-Asian place that I fit in as the only "tall white guy" behind the kitchen wall. I started as a pantry chef and wok cook which was fun but soon yearned to know what was up with this cool looking sushi stuff. The head chef came to me one day and told me to start training making make (rolls). Guests were complaining about the overwhelming Chinese accent of the, otherwise excellent, chefs. It was difficult to place an order. That was my actual entrance into mentoring under some meticulous principles of the art of sushi.

DB: We heard about naked sushi. Where do you stand in this experiment?

I first heard of mysterious Japanese "gangsters" enjoying a taboo practice of eating raw foods presented on glass tables, underneath which lay the naked "models". Big money was put down to enjoy the piece covering the more tantalizing parts of these "tables". It sounded naturally attractive, yet a bit like a myth. Later, while moving through my sushi career I heard that Russian speakeasies where doing the same type of feast. A friend then came to me out of the blue and asked me to cater a party at his house and specified he wanted something sort of sexy. I believe that is actually where we met! And, boom. Naked sushi in Seattle, as we know it, was born. I wont go into details, but it was very "hot". I was bragging to my fellow coworkers and friends when one of them spoke up and said they were launching a new club night in town and was very interested in having me perform at the event. This became a regular gig until the owner of the club decided it was such a hit that he wanted in the act and watched me until he felt he had what it took to cut me out of the deal. It was a shame, but it was fine with me. The restaurant went the opposite way with the "art" and saw it more as a marketing tool. They soon attracted the attention of local and national rights groups and for a while the media had a couple of field days with them. I have continued to perform at private functions crafting new ways of exploring this fun way of combining the form of body with food. Many times having men or women act as the models. Naked sushi is an art for me and not a way to objectify other than to admire the natural beauty of the forms involved. Oh and of course, there’s the taste of the fish.

DB: What is the oddest environment you made sushi in?

The "oddest" environment I have ever prepared sushi was also one of my heartfelt best experiences I have ever had: Burning Man! I will say no more.

DB: Jeff, you’re being modest. The Iron Chef contest at Burning Man was one of the most incredible experiences of my own life. You did a daring job preparing perfectly fresh fish for two dozen people in the Nevada desert.

DB: So, what’s the best piece of advice on fish you would give an enthusiast?

The best advice I have for fish lovers is to eat it, but not to forget that too much of anything is gluttony. Don’t forget that we need to reach a balance point of our needs and the ones of future creatures to yet enjoy our home planet.

DB: What would be an ultimate accomplishment in your career?

I don’t want to brag, but every time I aim high things just get more incredible. I always dreamed about having my own kitchen, which just happened with the new and popular Liberty Bar on Capitol Hill in Seattle – a major milestone for me. But my real goals are simple, to continue feeding good people great food!

DB: So what’s next? Would you write a book?

Write a book? Well I feel like my life is a book. Ha! Well, you’ll know when I do. Do you think I could make any money? Probably not, huh? Oh well …

DB: Thanks so much Jeff!

Thanks again for letting me hang here and chew the fish with you! Greetings from Seatown to the FoodCandy and let Liberty reign!